SOUTH AMERICA
Visiting South America was always a far fetched dream that I had but it actually came true when I booked a few of my clients on the Insignia, Oceania cruiselines to cruise from Buenos Aires to Valparaiso during the beautiful month of January. I booked my husband and myself on the cruise and joined them. One couple came from Ireland, one from London, England and one from Vancouver. We all met in Buenos Aires at the Alvear Palace Hotel.
We flew Air Canada out of Vancouver to Toronto with a stop over for a couple of hours in the Executive lounge before we boarded the flight. In the lounge, there was nothing to eat but the bar was open! The flight was long and we finally arrived in Santiago, Chile. Great duty shop at the airport and we stretched our legs a little and back on the flight bound for Buenos Aires. What a relief! The sun was warm and the airport just buzzing with traffic as many flights had just arrived. Our driver was waiting for us to take us to the hotel.
Alvear Palace is right in the midst of action! A majestic palace with very lavish rooms. We rested a little, had a glass of champagne to celebrate our arrival in B.A. and met the group to take our transfer to the tango show at ESQUINA CARLOS GARDEL. We had a fantastic steak dinner with Argentinian wine and the show just blew us away. The tour was organized by Badino Tourismo SA, Alem 651 3rd Piso, (1001) Buenos Aires Tel: 54-11-5238-7750. This whole package was supplied to me through Gilda Gutierrez in Miami who was just a great person to work with and did what she promised.
19 JANUARY 2007 at 9.30am after breakfast in the sun room of the Alvear Palace, Marta came to pick us up and show us the city. BUENOS AIRES, here we come!
First we visited the Recoleta Cemetery: Inside this exclusive cemetery, the remains of Argentina's most famous people, and the most famous Argentinian woman is found: EVA PERON " EVITA" died in 1954. She was only in her 30's and she died of cancer. Then we drive on to Teatro Colon, Museum des Beaux Arts and Eva Peron museum. Lunch was organized at "Spettus" in Puerto Madero. This is the old port of B.A. renewed and improved is now one of the selected and visited areas by the tourists. There are elegant restaurants all of them with a river view and there is a huge movie complex in the area. Nodoubt, there are beautiful leather shoe and bag stores. The restaurant serves all different cuts of steaks, lamb, chicken, a cold buffet with lots of fish and great South American wines again. We spent some time in May Square and the Metropolitan Cathedral and on the next day before boarding the ship, we visited the Museum of Beaux Arts which was just 5 mins walk fromt he hotel. Buenos Aires was just as I had pictured it in my mind, classy shops, well dressed and chic people and a lot of excitement in the city. Architechture is a mixture of French and Spanish and in some avenues, you could be in Paris, Lisbon or Madrid! The driver was at the hotel entrance punctual as ever and took us to the port to board the ship. In minutes we were on board and settled in our staterooms. For informatiion on the ship, the staterooms and all the amenities on board, email me at nargisg@shaw.ca
Our first port of call, MONTEVIDEO, Uruguay - January 21 2007
One of South America's most interesting cities. Just as we debarked the ship, we found a van for 6 people. He charged us $150 for 6 hours. He drove us to the city and we visited the Theatre which is a gorgeous building for Opera/Operetta. Montevideo lies on the east bank of the Rio de la Plata, almost directly opposite Buenos Aires on the west bank. The most intriguing area is the Ciudad Vieja, the colonial grid on a small peninsula near the port and harbour that was once surrounded by protective walls. Avenida 18 of July (Avenida 18 de Julio) is the capital's main commercial and entertainment zone. Mercado del Puerto - A walking distance from the ship and the port is a market with reasonably priced "Parillas" Choose your cut off the grill restaurants and also some up market places where they serve sea food. Vendors selling silver and other ornaments in this market.
23 JANUARY 2007 -PUERTO MADRYN - Old towns Trelew and Gaiman with red brick cottages. Way back, the Welsh settled here. I arranged for the group to see the Maguellan Penguins in Punta Tomba. The Valdez Peninsula is a privileged bird and sea fauna reservation, and the peak attraction is the southern whale that comes to these coasts to breed every year between May and December. Valdez Peninsula is a geographical accident resembling an island and attached to the continent by a narrow part which is only 35 km wide named Isthmus. Once you are in the peninsula, you can tour its coasts populated by sea lions and sea elephants and many birds. Puerto Piramides is the peak tourist attraction. A cozy little town with lodging facilities and restaurants.
We drove 180km south of P. Madryn and visted the penguins in PUNTA TOMBA. This is a natural protected area. Here lies the most important conony of Magallanic penguins. We drove through the Pantagonia dessert, the third largest in the world after the Sahara dessert and the Gobi in Mongolia. The penguins were named after Ferdinand Magellan who spotted them during his expedition. GAIMAN is the Welsh town but there was no time to visit the tea houses that are found here. The architechture, the traditions and even the Welsh language of the first settlers is still to be found. Welsh tea is served by the descendants of the first settlers.
25 JANUARY 2007 - PORT STANLEY FALKLAND ISLAND - We took a tender to get to the port. The highlights are Sparrow Cove penguins. The battlefield of the Falklands, Fitzroy Farm Hall - Battle of 1982 Mountain bases where the battle took place. There are jeeps that take you around the island for $50 per person. We hiked to Gypsey Cove, 5 miles from the dainty town of Port Stanley. 2 hours of solid walking, we arrived at the cove which is a beautiful park with mummy penguins in the holes with their babies. There was a colony of penguins on the beach with the king penguins standing out amongst the little ones. Back in town, The Globe is the place to have a drink and eat fish and chips. The War Memorial, the Government House and the museum are all very interesting to walk to as you pass the Jubillee houses. I felt I was in England. The weather made this port of call very very interesting because one does hear, there is NOTHING In Falkland Island, but we enjoyed it and have good memories!
JANUARY 27 2007 - USHUAIA - the southern most city in the in the world. We have been so lucky with the weather, the sea has been calm and it is unusually comfortable temperatures. Tierra del Fuego - Land of Fire is where we are heading. Very little English spoken by taxi drivers. $25 for the cab ride and $7 for entrance fees but ONLY LOCAL MONEY ACCEPTED. This park belongs to Argentina and Chile. It was created in 1960. Limited variety of fauna, 20 species of mammals and 90 species of birds. There are no amphibians on the island. Many lakes in the park. Lago Roca, Bahia Lapatia. The scenery just blows one away! The town gets quite busy with tourists at this time of the year, mostly cruise ships when they can dock because rough weather can divert the ships to the next port. TANTA NINA is a good restaurant near the port (We saw one of the chef's from the ship having lunch here so it must be good!). Prices are very reasonable and the food and wine are both premium class. Internet cafes, lots of cute little and big souvenir shops, Onyx and T-shirts and much more. Bought a little t-shirt for my grandson here.
INSIGNIA - OCEANIA is a delightful ship, very elegant and the crew is amazing. The Polo Grill, The Toscana and the Grand Dining Room are exclusive! The Tapas Bar is very relaxed and just the place when you do not need any entertaining! Not all clientele is 'high end' but many who just have the money to spend and want to be on a smaller ship! I am a good judge of people and from the bridge sessions I attended every afternoon, I made my impressions on the gentle people and arrogant ones!
We have one day at sea and the next morning the vessel enters the BEAGLE CHANNEL. Fantastic view from the starboard side of the ship and then at 5pm, we start sailing through the CHILEAN FJORDS AND GLACIERS with many waterfalls due to the melting snow. The glaciers have receded dramatically due toglobal warming.
29 JANUARY 2007 - PUNTA ARENAS
Rainy Morning but cleared up to a comfortable warm day. PUNTA ARENAS is a small town and if you want to take a day off and relax on the ship, this is the time to do it. OTWAY SOUND is the highlight here and there are more penguins to see.
CHILEAN FJORDS - Sailing through fjords in the early morning is just magical! Everyone gathers on the top deck to watch the captain manouevering through a very narrow channel. The weather is disappointing, misty and grey, 45 mile wind and raining but the INSIGNIA sails away smoothly towards LAGUNA SAN RAFAEL. There are two more nights at sea. Lots of bridge and Trivia but NO CASINO as Chilean laws forbid gambling while on their waters. The captain has promised the guests that on 31 January when he sails away from the inside passage, he might make the 28km distance from Chile and on international waters requirement when we would be able to go to the Casino. ARRIVAL IN LAGUNA SAN RAFAEL - the ship anchors here and they offerCatamaran tours to the glaciers. Laguna San Rafael National Park is located on the Pacific coast of Southern Chile. The park is named for the lagoon formed by the retreat of the San Rafael glacier. It was created in 1959 and covers an area of 1,742,000 hectares and includes the northern Patagonian ice field. A fjord more than 10 miles long is one of the parks principle attractions. This park is designated a World Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1979.
2 FEBRUARY 2007 - CHACABUCO - this is a little shanty town where there is nothing to do except if you take a tour organized by the ship to Simpson Valley for nature walks and admiring waterfalls. I have saved my money for the Iguazu Falls in Brazil! We walked to the internet and the little supermarket. A local bus will take you to AISEN which is 18 km and the next bigger town!
3 FEBRUARY 2007 - PUERTO MONTT
Sailing through fjords and islands, we arrive at Puerto Montt where we anchor and go on land to the small town of P. Montt. Gateway to the southern lakes, it is 634 miles south of Santiago. P. Montt is a very modern city. The German presence is very significant with signs for Juchen, Blumenhaus etc. There is an interesting fish market in Angelmo and many sea food restaurants. 16 miles north is VARAS. It is the largest town on the lake Llanquinhue. Along the way, you pass the town of Fruitillar which is tidy little town west of the lake.We took a car and went to Petrohue Falls, which are azure blue rapids.
5 FEBRUARY 2007 - SANTIAGO, CHILE - So sad the cruise is over! There is a big lineup to disembark as a bus takes you to the actual port where you pick your luggage up. The private van and driver are waiting for us and he shows us the city of Valparaiso. I found the information very interesting. Valparaíso is Chile’s most important seaport and an increasingly vital cultural center. The city is located in central Chile, where it is capital of the Region of Valparaíso. Valparaiso is also home of the National Congress. Built upon dozens of steep hillsides overlooking the Pacific Ocean, Valparaíso boasts a labyrinth of streets and cobblestone alleyways, embodying a rich architectural and cultural legacy. Valparaíso is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is often considered to be one of Latin America’s most intriguing urban areas. Valparaiso like most of Chile is vulnerable to earthquakes. The last major earthquake to strike the city directly was in 1906 which devastated the city and killed nearly 20,000. Then we drive to Vina del Mar and have lunch at Vina Indomita. We spend two nights at the Ritz Carlton in Santiago. During the early 19th century, Santiago remained a small town with few buildings excepting Palacio de La Moneda, the building used as the Chilean mint during the Spanish period, and a few churches and other civic buildings. The Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús caught fire during an 1863 church service, and 2000 people died, one of the worst modern fires.In the 1880s extraction of nitrate fertilizer in Northern Chile brought prosperity to the country, and promoted the capital city's development. Important landmarks were built in 1910 during the Centennial celebrations for independence from Spain.Santiago began its transformation into a modern city in the 1930s, with the building of the Barrio Cívico, surrounding El Palacio de La Moneda. The city also grew in population, due to migration from the north and south of Chile. In 1985 an earthquake destroyed some historically significant buildings in the downtown area. The evenings were always organized with dinner and a show and this time, we saw a Flklore show at the Balihai Restaurant in Santiago. Amazing dancers and very athletic! The next day, we took a half day tour to CONHA Y TORO winery. All Chilean wines are delicious and the walk through the vineyards and the surroundings is breathtaking. We had lunch at a nearby restaurant before we left three of our clients at the airport as they had an early evening flight and we went back to the Ritz in the Concierge lounge to have cocktails and light buffet before we headed out for the airport to catch our late flight back to Toronto. Memories are still very vivid in our minds of this very educational trip to South America. Our next dream is to fly to Punta Arenas and pick up a small ship to discover Antartica.
Any questions? Email me at info@travelwithexperience.com and I will be happy to assist!
We flew Air Canada out of Vancouver to Toronto with a stop over for a couple of hours in the Executive lounge before we boarded the flight. In the lounge, there was nothing to eat but the bar was open! The flight was long and we finally arrived in Santiago, Chile. Great duty shop at the airport and we stretched our legs a little and back on the flight bound for Buenos Aires. What a relief! The sun was warm and the airport just buzzing with traffic as many flights had just arrived. Our driver was waiting for us to take us to the hotel.
Alvear Palace is right in the midst of action! A majestic palace with very lavish rooms. We rested a little, had a glass of champagne to celebrate our arrival in B.A. and met the group to take our transfer to the tango show at ESQUINA CARLOS GARDEL. We had a fantastic steak dinner with Argentinian wine and the show just blew us away. The tour was organized by Badino Tourismo SA, Alem 651 3rd Piso, (1001) Buenos Aires Tel: 54-11-5238-7750. This whole package was supplied to me through Gilda Gutierrez in Miami who was just a great person to work with and did what she promised.
19 JANUARY 2007 at 9.30am after breakfast in the sun room of the Alvear Palace, Marta came to pick us up and show us the city. BUENOS AIRES, here we come!
First we visited the Recoleta Cemetery: Inside this exclusive cemetery, the remains of Argentina's most famous people, and the most famous Argentinian woman is found: EVA PERON " EVITA" died in 1954. She was only in her 30's and she died of cancer. Then we drive on to Teatro Colon, Museum des Beaux Arts and Eva Peron museum. Lunch was organized at "Spettus" in Puerto Madero. This is the old port of B.A. renewed and improved is now one of the selected and visited areas by the tourists. There are elegant restaurants all of them with a river view and there is a huge movie complex in the area. Nodoubt, there are beautiful leather shoe and bag stores. The restaurant serves all different cuts of steaks, lamb, chicken, a cold buffet with lots of fish and great South American wines again. We spent some time in May Square and the Metropolitan Cathedral and on the next day before boarding the ship, we visited the Museum of Beaux Arts which was just 5 mins walk fromt he hotel. Buenos Aires was just as I had pictured it in my mind, classy shops, well dressed and chic people and a lot of excitement in the city. Architechture is a mixture of French and Spanish and in some avenues, you could be in Paris, Lisbon or Madrid! The driver was at the hotel entrance punctual as ever and took us to the port to board the ship. In minutes we were on board and settled in our staterooms. For informatiion on the ship, the staterooms and all the amenities on board, email me at nargisg@shaw.ca
Our first port of call, MONTEVIDEO, Uruguay - January 21 2007
One of South America's most interesting cities. Just as we debarked the ship, we found a van for 6 people. He charged us $150 for 6 hours. He drove us to the city and we visited the Theatre which is a gorgeous building for Opera/Operetta. Montevideo lies on the east bank of the Rio de la Plata, almost directly opposite Buenos Aires on the west bank. The most intriguing area is the Ciudad Vieja, the colonial grid on a small peninsula near the port and harbour that was once surrounded by protective walls. Avenida 18 of July (Avenida 18 de Julio) is the capital's main commercial and entertainment zone. Mercado del Puerto - A walking distance from the ship and the port is a market with reasonably priced "Parillas" Choose your cut off the grill restaurants and also some up market places where they serve sea food. Vendors selling silver and other ornaments in this market.
23 JANUARY 2007 -PUERTO MADRYN - Old towns Trelew and Gaiman with red brick cottages. Way back, the Welsh settled here. I arranged for the group to see the Maguellan Penguins in Punta Tomba. The Valdez Peninsula is a privileged bird and sea fauna reservation, and the peak attraction is the southern whale that comes to these coasts to breed every year between May and December. Valdez Peninsula is a geographical accident resembling an island and attached to the continent by a narrow part which is only 35 km wide named Isthmus. Once you are in the peninsula, you can tour its coasts populated by sea lions and sea elephants and many birds. Puerto Piramides is the peak tourist attraction. A cozy little town with lodging facilities and restaurants.
We drove 180km south of P. Madryn and visted the penguins in PUNTA TOMBA. This is a natural protected area. Here lies the most important conony of Magallanic penguins. We drove through the Pantagonia dessert, the third largest in the world after the Sahara dessert and the Gobi in Mongolia. The penguins were named after Ferdinand Magellan who spotted them during his expedition. GAIMAN is the Welsh town but there was no time to visit the tea houses that are found here. The architechture, the traditions and even the Welsh language of the first settlers is still to be found. Welsh tea is served by the descendants of the first settlers.
25 JANUARY 2007 - PORT STANLEY FALKLAND ISLAND - We took a tender to get to the port. The highlights are Sparrow Cove penguins. The battlefield of the Falklands, Fitzroy Farm Hall - Battle of 1982 Mountain bases where the battle took place. There are jeeps that take you around the island for $50 per person. We hiked to Gypsey Cove, 5 miles from the dainty town of Port Stanley. 2 hours of solid walking, we arrived at the cove which is a beautiful park with mummy penguins in the holes with their babies. There was a colony of penguins on the beach with the king penguins standing out amongst the little ones. Back in town, The Globe is the place to have a drink and eat fish and chips. The War Memorial, the Government House and the museum are all very interesting to walk to as you pass the Jubillee houses. I felt I was in England. The weather made this port of call very very interesting because one does hear, there is NOTHING In Falkland Island, but we enjoyed it and have good memories!
JANUARY 27 2007 - USHUAIA - the southern most city in the in the world. We have been so lucky with the weather, the sea has been calm and it is unusually comfortable temperatures. Tierra del Fuego - Land of Fire is where we are heading. Very little English spoken by taxi drivers. $25 for the cab ride and $7 for entrance fees but ONLY LOCAL MONEY ACCEPTED. This park belongs to Argentina and Chile. It was created in 1960. Limited variety of fauna, 20 species of mammals and 90 species of birds. There are no amphibians on the island. Many lakes in the park. Lago Roca, Bahia Lapatia. The scenery just blows one away! The town gets quite busy with tourists at this time of the year, mostly cruise ships when they can dock because rough weather can divert the ships to the next port. TANTA NINA is a good restaurant near the port (We saw one of the chef's from the ship having lunch here so it must be good!). Prices are very reasonable and the food and wine are both premium class. Internet cafes, lots of cute little and big souvenir shops, Onyx and T-shirts and much more. Bought a little t-shirt for my grandson here.
INSIGNIA - OCEANIA is a delightful ship, very elegant and the crew is amazing. The Polo Grill, The Toscana and the Grand Dining Room are exclusive! The Tapas Bar is very relaxed and just the place when you do not need any entertaining! Not all clientele is 'high end' but many who just have the money to spend and want to be on a smaller ship! I am a good judge of people and from the bridge sessions I attended every afternoon, I made my impressions on the gentle people and arrogant ones!
We have one day at sea and the next morning the vessel enters the BEAGLE CHANNEL. Fantastic view from the starboard side of the ship and then at 5pm, we start sailing through the CHILEAN FJORDS AND GLACIERS with many waterfalls due to the melting snow. The glaciers have receded dramatically due toglobal warming.
29 JANUARY 2007 - PUNTA ARENAS
Rainy Morning but cleared up to a comfortable warm day. PUNTA ARENAS is a small town and if you want to take a day off and relax on the ship, this is the time to do it. OTWAY SOUND is the highlight here and there are more penguins to see.
CHILEAN FJORDS - Sailing through fjords in the early morning is just magical! Everyone gathers on the top deck to watch the captain manouevering through a very narrow channel. The weather is disappointing, misty and grey, 45 mile wind and raining but the INSIGNIA sails away smoothly towards LAGUNA SAN RAFAEL. There are two more nights at sea. Lots of bridge and Trivia but NO CASINO as Chilean laws forbid gambling while on their waters. The captain has promised the guests that on 31 January when he sails away from the inside passage, he might make the 28km distance from Chile and on international waters requirement when we would be able to go to the Casino. ARRIVAL IN LAGUNA SAN RAFAEL - the ship anchors here and they offerCatamaran tours to the glaciers. Laguna San Rafael National Park is located on the Pacific coast of Southern Chile. The park is named for the lagoon formed by the retreat of the San Rafael glacier. It was created in 1959 and covers an area of 1,742,000 hectares and includes the northern Patagonian ice field. A fjord more than 10 miles long is one of the parks principle attractions. This park is designated a World Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1979.
2 FEBRUARY 2007 - CHACABUCO - this is a little shanty town where there is nothing to do except if you take a tour organized by the ship to Simpson Valley for nature walks and admiring waterfalls. I have saved my money for the Iguazu Falls in Brazil! We walked to the internet and the little supermarket. A local bus will take you to AISEN which is 18 km and the next bigger town!
3 FEBRUARY 2007 - PUERTO MONTT
Sailing through fjords and islands, we arrive at Puerto Montt where we anchor and go on land to the small town of P. Montt. Gateway to the southern lakes, it is 634 miles south of Santiago. P. Montt is a very modern city. The German presence is very significant with signs for Juchen, Blumenhaus etc. There is an interesting fish market in Angelmo and many sea food restaurants. 16 miles north is VARAS. It is the largest town on the lake Llanquinhue. Along the way, you pass the town of Fruitillar which is tidy little town west of the lake.We took a car and went to Petrohue Falls, which are azure blue rapids.
5 FEBRUARY 2007 - SANTIAGO, CHILE - So sad the cruise is over! There is a big lineup to disembark as a bus takes you to the actual port where you pick your luggage up. The private van and driver are waiting for us and he shows us the city of Valparaiso. I found the information very interesting. Valparaíso is Chile’s most important seaport and an increasingly vital cultural center. The city is located in central Chile, where it is capital of the Region of Valparaíso. Valparaiso is also home of the National Congress. Built upon dozens of steep hillsides overlooking the Pacific Ocean, Valparaíso boasts a labyrinth of streets and cobblestone alleyways, embodying a rich architectural and cultural legacy. Valparaíso is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is often considered to be one of Latin America’s most intriguing urban areas. Valparaiso like most of Chile is vulnerable to earthquakes. The last major earthquake to strike the city directly was in 1906 which devastated the city and killed nearly 20,000. Then we drive to Vina del Mar and have lunch at Vina Indomita. We spend two nights at the Ritz Carlton in Santiago. During the early 19th century, Santiago remained a small town with few buildings excepting Palacio de La Moneda, the building used as the Chilean mint during the Spanish period, and a few churches and other civic buildings. The Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús caught fire during an 1863 church service, and 2000 people died, one of the worst modern fires.In the 1880s extraction of nitrate fertilizer in Northern Chile brought prosperity to the country, and promoted the capital city's development. Important landmarks were built in 1910 during the Centennial celebrations for independence from Spain.Santiago began its transformation into a modern city in the 1930s, with the building of the Barrio Cívico, surrounding El Palacio de La Moneda. The city also grew in population, due to migration from the north and south of Chile. In 1985 an earthquake destroyed some historically significant buildings in the downtown area. The evenings were always organized with dinner and a show and this time, we saw a Flklore show at the Balihai Restaurant in Santiago. Amazing dancers and very athletic! The next day, we took a half day tour to CONHA Y TORO winery. All Chilean wines are delicious and the walk through the vineyards and the surroundings is breathtaking. We had lunch at a nearby restaurant before we left three of our clients at the airport as they had an early evening flight and we went back to the Ritz in the Concierge lounge to have cocktails and light buffet before we headed out for the airport to catch our late flight back to Toronto. Memories are still very vivid in our minds of this very educational trip to South America. Our next dream is to fly to Punta Arenas and pick up a small ship to discover Antartica.
Any questions? Email me at info@travelwithexperience.com and I will be happy to assist!
Comments